Smartening up for the workday

GREATER METROPLEX-- Dressing up is always better than dressing down, even if office protocol suggests otherwise, says image consultant Ann Tully.

Tully, owner of Uniquely You image consulting, says people should dress for where they are going, not for where they are. It's time to shake off the traditional pattern in which workers dress according to their position in a hierarchy, she says.

"What is the worst thing that could happen to you if you're the best-dressed person in the room?" she asks.

In these days of layoffs, image consultants like Tully and Fort Worth-based Elaine Stolz are busier than ever. To employers interviewing scores of qualified applicants for individual positions, pressed pants and a clean shave can help secure a second interview, says Stolz.

"To get a job, applicants are going to have to have something over the next person," she says. "The first impression is becoming more important every day."

But smartening up for interviews is just one aspect of an apparent trend toward more formal business dress. Unfortunately, however, many people are making mistakes, say Stolz and Tully. These include women going without make-up and people wearing clothes that don't fit properly.

Hollywood and fashion magazines are not helpful, she adds, confusing young women about what is appropriate to wear to the office.

"The influence of television and movies is important to address," she says. "Younger girls are watching businesswomen on `Sex and the City' wearing skin-tight suits and high pumps to work. It's important to address this situation and advise young women of when they are crossing the line."

This can be a tough issue for management and human resources specialists, says Michael McGee, an HR consultant at Hyde, Danforth & Co.

"Usually in this situation, employees haven't been given the example they need within the company," he says.

McGee advises businesses to spell out dress-code policies clearly when employees apply for a job. "The dress code should be as clear to them as their benefits," he says.

Hiring fashion consultants to visit a company is highly effective and often used by major corporations, McGee says. This way, fashion professionals are able to create shopping plans that consider workers' styles and personal budgets.

"It's greatly appreciated by employees, because consultants can give them ways to look better for less," he says.

Tully says when building a wardrobe it's essential to do three things: clean out, plan what to buy and shop with purpose and a budget. She warns clients that if they don't make a list of what they need, they will waste money on unnecessary items.

So what constitutes the perfectly dressed business man or woman?

Traditionalists believe in conservative, dark basics along the lines of the European model. For women this means suits with knee-length skirts, tan hose and pumps, while men should stick to traditional suit-shirt-tie ensembles and avoid light colors.

"The clothes should not talk before you do," Stolz says.

But modern stylists say that while maintaining a basically professional look employees should keep in mind that distinctiveness makes an individual stand out.

Tully also recommends clothes that offset a person's personality. "If you are already a loud person," she says. "I'm going to be taken aback if you come in with bright bold colors." Restrained personalities can use their clothing to enhance personal presence, she adds.

However, stylists agree working within current trends is a must. In other words, the fashionably smart have to know the rules before breaking them.

The good news is those rules are easy to follow. Natural sophistication is in, rigid hair and lavish make-up are out.

"Women should wear their hair professional, but carefree," says Stolz. "If you were born with curly hair, wear it curly. If you were born with straight hair, wear it straight."

Stolz recommends bobbed cuts or tapered styles to achieve a professional, clean look. And if you think blondes have more fun, think again.

"The trend is moving away from highlighting hair and blond hair," says Stolz. "If you notice, more style icons are featuring darker hair colors. Personally, I think nature was good to us, and we should only start coloring and highlighting our hair as we begin to gray."

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